Do you love adjustable shawls but have no clue where to start? Make yourself comfortable: let’s get you started on my tutorial series on adjustable shawls. Feeling lost? Find the article series overview here!

Welcome to Day 7 of the Adjustable Shawls series! Today, we’re talking about adjustable rhomboid shawls.

Rhomboids (parallelograms) are constructed by combining triangles with rectangle shawl elements. So if we want to make a rhomboid shawl adjustable, we need our kitchen scale again.

Making Rhomboid Shawls Adjustable

Weigh the yarn you have available first and write down the number. Start knitting the increase section (the first triangle, increases on one side only) until your shawl is of desired width. Weigh your yarn again. The difference between the two numbers is the amount of yarn needed for one triangle. As the same triangle, just mirrored, will be knitted at the end of the shawl, we need to subtract the triangle yarn amount twice from the original weight. The result is the yarn we have available for the center (straight) section of the parallelogram.

An Example

Assuming we have 100 g of yarn available and our first triangle weighs 20 g. Then we have

100 – 2*20 g = 100 – 40 = 60 g

available for the center section.

Any questions so far? If yes, feel free to drop me a comment!

Do you love adjustable shawls but have no clue where to start? Make yourself comfortable: let’s get you started on my tutorial series on adjustable shawls. Feeling lost? Find the article series overview here!

Welcome to Day 6 of the Adjustable Shawls series! Today, we’re talking about adjustable circular shawls.

in the shawl design online series before proceeding.

Adjustable Circular Shawls

Circular shawls using only one stitch pattern are adjustable by default. Make sure you use your kitchen scale as outlined in the post Your Most Important Tool when your yarn supply is limited.

The post mentioned in the previous paragraph does not unveil the secrets of calculations when it comes to circles. How to calculate how many increase rounds, or how many sections between the increases can be worked?

The formula for the area of a circle is the square of its radius multiplied by Pi (3.1415926…):

A = r^2 * Pi

So let’s assume you started with three stitches and have completed your first three sections (two increase rounds – the first section, the center of the circle, doesn’t have an increase round). The number of rows to be worked between each increase row is doubled. We started with three rows.

Bonus exercise: How many stitches are on our needles after finishing the third section? How many rows have been worked in total?

3 sts / 3 rows (first section),

6 sts / 6 rows (second section),

12 sts / 12 rows (third section)

makes a total of 12 stitches and 21 rows. Measure your circle at this point – we need it’s radius: measure it from the center point in a straight line to the edge with the live stitches on the needle. This is our row gauge, basically. Let’s say we achieve a row gauge of 6 rows per inch: our circle radius is now 3.5 inches, our circle has an area of 38.5 square inches.

Weigh your yarn now. Again. (You put the whole skein on the scale before you started out, didn’t you?)

Our example skein had 100 g before we started and weighs 90 g now. This makes 38.5 square inches (sqi) per 10 grams – 3.85 sqi per gram. Got the idea?

The next section would take another 24 rows, increasing the circle according to your row gauge. How many inches are this?

24 / 6 = 4

This would increase our radius by 4 inches and make a total radius of 7.5 in. The area of the ring segment just worked (the 24 rows) is

A (bigger circle) – A (smaller circle) = 7.5^2 * Pi – 3.5^2 * Pi = 177 sqi – 38.5 sqi = 138 sqi.

Weigh your skein again – the example skein has 75 grams now. The question is: can another section be worked with the yarn left over?

The next section would be an additional 48 rows – 8 inches more, resulting in a total radius of 15.5 in, an area of 755 sqi. The additional area would be 755 – 177 = 578 sqi. We can work 3.85 sqi per gram. Is our 75g left over yarn enough?

The answer is no. (Try to calculate how many grams would be needed for yourself!)

Pattern Modules in Circular Shawls

For alignment of pattern modules in circular shawls the same principles as outlined in the post on the math of adjustable shawls – What Makes Shawls Adjustable? – apply here, too. The most important difference is the presence of increase rounds in circular shawls.

My personal advice: try to align your pattern modules with the increase rounds. Place your increase rounds between pattern module blocks.

So if your first block’s stitch count is a multiple of 5, and one increase round is worked between the first and the second block, your second block has to have a stitch count being a multiple of 10 to work. Why? Because increase rounds in circular shawls double the stitch count.

Any questions so far? If yes, feel free to drop me a comment!

To celebrate the release of the second edition of my book Alpine Lace stockings and its availability as Kindle and paperback editions on Amazon, this week’s Friday Freebie is going to be one of my knitting patterns for Alpine socks!

Which free sock knitting pattern do you want to see as this week’s Friday Freebie? There are three lovely free knitting patterns for socks to choose from this week. Shown from top to bottom: Himbeeren, Johanna and Strausserl.

Vote here for your preferred free knitting patterns for socks to be featured in this week’s Friday Freebie!

I’m very happy to announce that my book Alpine Lace Stockings has been taken to its second edition and is available here in my shop as well as on Amazon as Kindle and Paperback* editions.

*As usual, the paperback edition takes a little bit longer to appear on Amazon. Link will be updated as soon as it’s available.

The book contains five charming knitting patterns for Alpine socks (stockings, called Stutzen in Austria):

Do you love adjustable shawls but have no clue where to start? Make yourself comfortable: let’s get you started on my tutorial series on adjustable shawls. Feeling lost? Find the article series overview here!

Welcome to Day 4 of the Adjustable Shawls series! Today, we’re talking about adjustable triangle shawls.

The Basics of Triangle Shawls

There is a whole bunch of information about triangle shawls available in my Shawl Design For Everybody series here on jriede.com. If you don’t know anything about triangle shawls and how they are constructed yet, feel free to browse the series and learn about

in the shawl design online series before proceeding.

Adjustable Triangle Shawls

Triangle shawls using only one stitch pattern are adjustable by default. Make sure you use your kitchen scale as described in the post Your Most Important Tool when working from top down or when using stitch pattern modules.

For alignment of pattern modules in triangle shawls the same principles as outlined in the post on the math of adjustable shawls – What Makes Shawls Adjustable? – apply here, too.

Pattern Modules in Triangles

For triangles, things are a bit different: the stitch count is not fixed here. Usually, a certain amount of stitches is increased every few rows to form a triangle. Mostly, this increases are done near the edges. What we end up with is a different situation with pattern modules: in each section, there are “normal” modules (like the modules show above) and variants of these on each side of the triangles, where the increases are made.

In my knitting patterns, I mostly refer to these parts as “PATTERN NAME repeat”, “PATTERN NAME right side”, and “PATTERN NAME left side”. (The repeat is the “normal” module as shown above.)

Let’s look at an example for a 10 x 10 module. The lowermost triangle is a setup section, just ignore it for now. The first module repeat section consists of one normal panel plus one left and one right side panels. On the second module repeat there are three module repeats plus two side panels: the side panels in the first repeat generate the needed number of stitches for the two additional repeat modules in the second repeat.

This can be continued for as many module repeats you want. But what if we want to change the module size?

Well, if we switch from 10 x 10 to 5 x 5 modules, there isn’t any problem: the 5 x 5 module fits into one 10 x 10 module twice, so everything goes well as shown in the figure below.

But it does not work out the other way round. Why? Because we start with one 5 x 5 module and two side panels – and each module repeat adds two more repeats, the stitch counts are therefor 3*5, 5*5, 7*5, … which cannot be divided by 10 without remainder. Ever.

A possible solution is to start with two repeats and two side panels in the 5 x 5 module first repeat section, yielding stitch counts being multiples of 10 as needed for the 10 x 10 module section afterwards.

Let’s Sum Up

Triangle shawls using only one stitch pattern (for instance, only use garter stitch or only one pattern repeat) are adjustable by default. To make triangle shawls with different stitch patterns adjustable, you have to make sure the stitch count before and after a pattern transition (changing the pattern within the stole) does not change.

Any questions so far? If yes, feel free to drop me a comment!